2023 Marco De Bartoli – Sole & Vento – Terre Siciliane – IGP

Marco de Bartoli inherited a historic baglio from his grandmother, part of the renowned Pellegrino family of Marsala wine producers. In the 1980s, when Marsala wine was in decline—seen mainly as a fortified commercial product for cooking—Marco felt compelled to restore the wine's dignity and reputation.

Displeased with the state of Marsala, Marco began by experimenting with forgotten old wines from ancient bagli, rejuvenating them with new wine. This process, similar to the Spanish Solera system, used the in perpetuum method, a technique predating the British introduction of fortification to Marsala. The result was a concentrated, unfortified nectar, enriched by a blend of various vintages, showcasing the complexity and depth of the region’s winemaking heritage.

Marco’s next venture involved focusing on native single-varietal wines, starting production in Samperi. Using the in perpetuum method, he created a wine made from 100% late-harvested Grillo grapes, unfortified and with a high alcohol content, which was ideal for prolonged cask aging. While the DOC system allowed four grape varieties for Marsala, Marco’s choice of Grillo was challenging due to its low yield and difficulty in cultivation. However, the grape’s natural advantages, such as high acidity and sugar content, made fortification unnecessary.

The base wine, enriched by the calcareous tufa terroir, carried the characteristics of the region—evident in visible marine fossils and shells in the soil. Marco later applied this technique to create Marsala wines, which were made from in perpetuum base wines and then fortified with fresh mistella, using musts and brandy derived from the same grapes. These wines, aged in the Solera system, became a true embodiment of Marco de Bartoli’s philosophy: “time is the key ingredient to making Marsala.” This focus on patience and tradition helped restore the prestige of Marsala as a wine to be revered.